How To Adjust A Pattern

As most of you sewing fanatics have come to find out, purchasing a commercial pattern in your size is not always a safe bet. Even though the pattern guarantees the piece of clothing you will make will fit like a glove, sometimes, this “glove” ends up fitting more like a mitten.

Since most commercial patterns usually need some alterations, knowing how to adjust a pattern prior to construction is a useful skill and very much a necessary one to have.  The steps listed below will outline the essentials of adjusting a pattern.  Let’s get to it!

MEASUREMENTS

Accurate body measurements are key  when selecting a pattern. Take and record your measurements periodically to ensure your sizing will be correct before buying a pattern. In relation to the type of garment you will be sewing, keep a chart of your measurements and the date and update it once in awhile.

PATTERN COPY

If you need to make any pattern modifications and want to preserve the original pattern, trace a copy! This way, you will always have the original as a reference.  

EASE

For wearability, each pattern has a certain amount of ease. Although the amount of ease is not always specified on the pattern envelope, it should be noted on each pattern piece. This will tell you how much “allowance” each garment has, so you can subtract and/or add accordingly.

WHERE TO ADJUST

Knowing exactly where to adjust the pattern exclusively for your body type is crucial when attempting to achieve the ideal fit. This skill takes time to develop, since you will need to sew a few garments (or muslins) in order to take note of which areas need improvement. Great news is, once you have figured out which revisions you need to make, you can apply this to most patterns in the future.

 Follow these four fundamental steps and slowly but surely, you’ll have garments that fit you just right in all the right spots! Send me your questions and comments about adjusting patterns below!

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on March 17, 2014